yes somebody is scrapping a van and made a huge joke out of the way it is done.
Must be a CAR GUY......

I am really surprised they unbolted the grill and the core support a saws all or a torch would have made short work of that.

The correct way is to unbolt the grill ,Core suppoet rad. exaust manifolds and come out the front.

If you have a twin post lift you can undo 12 to 14 bolts the brake lines and the steering arm and drop the complete cross member out the bottom.Not too many people know this tick of have a lift that can do it.Most go through the front.The engines/transmissions,front cross member where installed in these vans from the bottom as one big unit at the factory
Most CAR GUY paid wrenches are intimidated by Vans so they just jack the price up when you ask them......SISSY'S

.......Wookee

Didn't someone say something about a SawZall?

Now thats rippin

I watched a professional mechanic attempt to take one out through the door. He didn't take into account the doghouse hole wasn't big enough to squeeze the engine through with the dashboard still on there, if at all, so after a few hours wasted, they then attempted to remove the subframe. After quite a few more hours, the guy walked across the street to my shop and admitted he was clueless (he has seen me working on Chevy Vans quite a few times). I had the engine out in less than an hour, removing the front end as described above (no sawzall though). My secret is to take off the intake and bolt the end of the crane in between the heads. Eliminates at least an hour of pushing, lifting, pushing, dropping, pushing, lifting and more pushing.....

here is a 4.3 coming out of one with the intake in place...





my engine crane is bigger than a normal one.Putting the van up on stands is very help full.
No hook the bar the chain is attached to with a longer chain going across the bar to opposite heads

I just checked my email and got this response for my questions:

1. It is probably in China by now.
2. A-pillar/roof-header?
3. No to A, B, & C, That answer is magnets.
Thanks.

Now there's no doubt in my mind that I'm being strung..

Out the front like Joe or out from under the van.

You can pull 'em with the intake on it but if you're gonna remove the intake anyway it does give you just a little more room. The carb or TBI will have to come off either way.
Like Wook says, the real trick is having the front of the van up so that the lift arm is almost level when it's hooked up. Saves a lot of cussin'.

Mean Like This? It does'nt exactly show what happened, but from the sound of it, I may wanna wait to paint afterwards.

Part1


Part2

Another trick you can use in addition to lifting the front end is to unbolt the motor mount pedestals from the frame. There are only 5 bolts per side, and once unbolted from the subframe and motor mount, then can be slid out and the motor has another few inches of clearance, at least for the inital start of the pull before the oil pan hits. But you should be able to get the hoist most or all of the way clear of the firewall by the time that happens. And if you still have the trans attached, it eliminates one more thing to hit going out as well. Going in it makes it even easier. My wife couldn't believe it when after only 1/2 hour I had the new engine and trans bolted in. Lifting the front and removing the engine mount pedestals make life so much easier doing this, especially if like me you were doing it alone with no extra hands to assist.