RV air cond not good on top of van beacuse of heavy rail and metal sheet on top is not strong enough but if y have fiberglass on top will work.. also water drain make mess on top cause rust.


reason i put windows Air Cond on door strong hold and easy exhaust out in back when i drive.. inside of door has double sheet metal more extra hold of air cond than windows of door.

Power Inventor i use Cobra 800 watts work good on my windows Air cond it only 515 Watts with 4.7 amp 5,000 btu

that Power Inverntor i bought here link
http://www.donrowe.com/index.html

What about the floor mount AC units that only put an exhaust tube in the window instead? If you're going to us an AC system designed for a house, maybe check those out? I had one for a while when I lived in an apartment. Did an OK job but much easier to install than a window mount unit.

Thanks for your suggestion.

The issue with house A/C system is the water. The windows are high above the flooring where AC would be if I followed your suggestion. Two problems. Window is too high for the water to exit naturally. It would back up. And it would sloshes all over as I drive.

The A/C I have works really great! I just drove 2 hours north and I had no problem. Bumpy road and it still held perfectly. I had it installed professionally. No water back up issue. The van stayed cool for the cats I was transporting for my wife.

It's only 13 inches so it works great!

Other thing is that the door is very easy to replace. If you tire of the AC or if in the winter time you don't want this at all, you can put on other door within 30 minutes or so.

The reason I installed in the door is for the flow of the exhaust and the bugs won't hit like they hit front window and the sides.

Update my power inventer 800 watts just got problem up and down so i upgrade 800 to 1200 watts it much better and work good for 3 day row now..
running on my A/C 5,000 btu

Your van appears lightly insulated. When driving and powered by the inverter, how effective is it at cooling the Van?

What is your battery voltage at idle speed when it is running? You should Take a reading with engine hot and idling, and again after a few minutes of idling. If you see the battery voltage drop below 12.8 after a few minutes, then your alternator is not able to handle the load of powering the inverter( at idle speeds) , and your battery is providing the extra amps, and will be chronically undercharged and have a short lifespan.

See how many rpms it takes to bring the voltage back above 12.8 too, as perhaps even highway cruising is not enough to keep the battery from partially powering the inverter.

I know for a fact my alternator could not keep up at hot idle speeds, as I max out around 32 amps at 550 engine rpm when hot, and that AC will pull about 65 to 75 through an inverter. That is a pretty heavy load on the alternator, and also consuming ~3 engine HP.

I like the install. It'd be nice to have it hidden by my spare tire, but some mods to the carrier would be needed and might reduce airflow and efficiency.

Can you post some outside ambient vs inside temperatures?

Some have found that on some models(I don't know which ones) the copper tubing holding the refrigerant cracks after a few months of driving around. I'll look for the post, but one guy reinforced/ supported the copper tubes to keep them from fatiguing from vibrations it was not originally designed to handle.

Again, nice install, but do check your battery voltages at the battery terminals, because alternator ratings have little to do with real world output.

At least make sure to carry around some jumpers with you